USDA hardiness zone map explained
If you've spent any time reading about gardening, you've run into hardiness zones. "Plant in zones 5-9." "Hardy to zone 4." The numbers get tossed around constantly, but most people have only a fuzzy idea of what they actually mean. I know I gardened for a couple years before I looked into it properly.
The short version: your USDA hardiness zone tells you the average coldest temperature your area hits in winter. That's it. One number. It doesn't tell you about heat, rainfall, soil type, humidity, or growing season length. It's useful but limited, and understanding those limits will save you from some bad decisions.
How the zones work
The USDA divides the country into 13 zones (1a through 13b). Each zone represents a 10-degree Fahrenheit range of average annual minimum winter temperatures. Each zone is split into "a" and "b" halves, each covering a 5-degree range.
Some examples:
- Zone 3a: -40 to -35F average minimum
- Zone 5b: -15 to -10F
- Zone 7a: 0 to 5F
- Zone 8b: 15 to 20F
- Zone 10a: 30 to 35F
The USDA calculates these numbers using 30 years of winter temperature data from weather stations across the country. The most recent update was in 2023, and it shifted many areas half a zone warmer compared to the previous 2012 map. If you looked up your zone years ago, it might have changed.
What zones are designed for
The hardiness zone map was originally created for one purpose: telling you whether a perennial plant will survive your winter. When a nursery tag says "hardy to zone 5," it means that plant can survive winter temperatures down to -20F. Plant it in zone 4, where temps regularly hit -30F, and it'll likely die over winter.
This matters most for trees, shrubs, perennial flowers, and fruit trees. If you're planting an apple tree, you need to know whether your winters will kill it. Zones answer that question reasonably well.
What zones don't tell you
Here's where people get tripped up. Zones tell you about winter cold and nothing else. Two places can share the same zone and have completely different growing conditions.
Seattle and Memphis are both roughly zone 8. Seattle has mild, wet winters and cool, dry summers. Memphis has mild winters too, but summers are brutally hot and humid. A plant that thrives in Seattle's zone 8 might hate Memphis, and vice versa, even though the zone number matches.
Things the zone map ignores:
- Summer heat (the AHS has a separate heat zone map, but few people use it)
- Rainfall and humidity
- Growing season length (some zone 6 areas have 150 frost-free days, others have 190)
- Soil type
- Sun intensity and day length
- Wind exposure
Zones and vegetable gardening
For annual vegetables (tomatoes, beans, lettuce, peppers), hardiness zones are less directly relevant than for perennials. Annual vegetables don't need to survive winter. What matters more is your frost dates and growing season length.
That said, your zone gives you a rough idea of your climate. Zone 3 gardeners know they have short, intense summers. Zone 9 gardeners know they can grow cool-season crops through winter. The zone is a useful shorthand even if it's not the whole picture.
When vegetable seed packets say "zones 3-9," they usually mean the crop can be grown as an annual anywhere in that range, with appropriate timing adjustments. A zone 3 gardener starts tomatoes indoors in April and transplants in June. A zone 9 gardener might transplant in March. Same plant, different calendar.
Your local frost dates are the more practical tool for vegetable garden timing. You can look up frost dates and planting schedules for your zip code here.
Microclimates change everything
Your yard might not match the zone the USDA assigned to your zip code. Microclimates are real and they make a difference.
Common microclimates:
- South-facing walls absorb and radiate heat. A bed against a south-facing brick wall might be a full zone warmer than the rest of your yard. Fig growers in zone 6 use this trick to grow a zone 7-8 plant.
- Low spots collect cold air. Cold air is dense and flows downhill, pooling in valleys and depressions. A garden at the bottom of a slope might frost 2-3 weeks earlier in fall than one on the hillside above it.
- Urban areas tend to run warmer than surrounding countryside (the "heat island" effect).
- Large bodies of water moderate temperatures. Lake-adjacent gardens often frost later in fall and warm up later in spring.
If you're a new gardener, pay attention to what your neighbors grow successfully. That tells you more about your specific microclimate than any map.
The 2023 map update
The USDA released an updated map in November 2023, replacing the 2012 version. About half the country shifted to a warmer half-zone. This reflects both a longer data window (1991-2020 vs. 1976-2005) and actual warming trends.
If you were zone 6b on the old map, you might be zone 7a now. This matters for perennial plant selection, less so for annual vegetable timing. Your frost dates are still your frost dates regardless of which zone the new map puts you in.
You can look up your current zone on the USDA's interactive map at planthardiness.ars.usda.gov by entering your zip code.
How to actually use your zone
For practical gardening decisions:
- Use your zone when choosing perennial plants, fruit trees, and berry bushes. Make sure the plant is rated for your zone or colder.
- Use your frost dates (not your zone) for vegetable planting timing.
- Use your zone as rough shorthand when reading gardening advice. If a blog post is written by someone in zone 9 and you're in zone 5, their timing won't apply to you, but their variety recommendations might still be useful.
- Pay attention to your yard's microclimates. The zone is a regional average. Your specific conditions might differ.
Get planting dates customized for your location, not just your zone.
Try the free planting calendar →
Hardiness zones are a starting point, not the final word. They give you a shared language for talking about climate, and they keep you from planting a tropical tree in Minnesota. Beyond that, your own observations, local frost data, and a soil thermometer will teach you more about your garden than any map.