When to Plant Onions by Zone (Short-Day, Long-Day & Intermediate)
Zone-by-zone onion planting guide. Learn when to plant onions, which day-length type to choose for your region, and how to grow big bulbs from sets, transplants, or seed.
March 2, 2026
Onions are one of the most rewarding crops you can grow, but they're also one of the most misunderstood. The key thing most people get wrong? Day length. Onions form bulbs in response to daylight hours, not temperature, and planting the wrong type for your latitude means you'll end up with scallions instead of full-sized bulbs.
Here's everything you need to know about when and how to plant onions based on your USDA hardiness zone.
Understanding day-length types
Before we get to planting dates, you need to know which type of onion to grow. This is non-negotiable — it's the single biggest factor in whether you get bulbs or not.
- Short-day onions: Start forming bulbs when day length reaches 10–12 hours. Best for southern regions (zones 7–10, roughly south of the 36th parallel). Plant in fall or early winter for a spring harvest.
- Long-day onions: Need 14–16 hours of daylight to bulb. Best for northern regions (zones 3–6, roughly north of the 36th parallel). Plant in early spring.
- Intermediate-day (day-neutral) onions: Bulb at 12–14 hours of daylight. Work in zones 5–8 and are the most versatile choice if you're unsure.
Onion planting dates by zone
| Zone | Type to Plant | When to Plant | Harvest |
|---|---|---|---|
| 3–4 | Long-day | April – early May (as soon as soil can be worked) | August – September |
| 5 | Long-day or intermediate | Late March – April | July – August |
| 6 | Long-day or intermediate | Mid-March – April | July – August |
| 7 | Intermediate or short-day | Sets/transplants: February – March; Seed: start indoors Jan | June – July |
| 8 | Short-day or intermediate | October – November (fall planting) | May – June |
| 9 | Short-day | October – December | April – May |
| 10 | Short-day | November – January | April – May |
Not sure what zone you're in? Use our USDA zone lookup tool to find out.
Three ways to plant onions
From sets (small bulbs)
Onion sets are the easiest method. You buy small, dormant bulbs and push them into the soil. They're widely available at garden centers in spring.
- Pros: Fastest to harvest, easiest for beginners, most tolerant of imperfect conditions
- Cons: Limited variety selection, more prone to bolting (going to flower), smaller maximum bulb size
- Planting depth: 1 inch deep, pointy end up, spaced 4–6 inches apart
From transplants (seedlings)
Transplants are young onion plants, usually sold in bundles of 50–75. They produce the biggest bulbs and offer more variety choices than sets.
- Pros: Largest bulbs, best variety selection, less bolting than sets
- Cons: Need to be planted quickly after purchase, more expensive per plant
- Planting depth: 1 inch deep, spaced 4–6 inches apart in rows 12 inches apart
From seed
Growing from seed gives you the most variety options but requires the most time. Start seeds indoors 8–10 weeks before your outdoor planting date.
- Pros: Widest variety selection, cheapest per plant
- Cons: Longest time to harvest, requires indoor starting setup
- Starting indoors: Sow seeds ¼ inch deep in trays. Keep at 65–75°F. Transplant outdoors when seedlings are pencil-thick. See our indoor seed starting guide for detailed setup instructions.
Soil and site preparation
Onions are heavy feeders that need:
- Full sun: At least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight. More sun = bigger bulbs.
- Loose, well-drained soil: Onions push against the soil as they grow. Compacted clay soil = smaller, oddly-shaped bulbs. Amend heavy soil with compost.
- Soil pH of 6.0–7.0: Slightly acidic to neutral. Test your soil and add lime if it's too acidic.
- Consistent nitrogen: Apply a balanced fertilizer at planting and side-dress with nitrogen every 2–3 weeks until bulbs start to form. Stop fertilizing once you see the tops start to fall over.
Common onion growing mistakes
- Wrong day-length type: This is mistake #1 and it's unfixable. A long-day onion planted in zone 9 will never bulb properly. Double-check your zone and buy accordingly.
- Planting too deep: Onion bulbs should form mostly above the soil line. Plant shallow — just deep enough to anchor the plant.
- Letting them go dry: Onions have shallow roots and need consistent moisture, especially during bulb formation. Water regularly but don't waterlog them.
- Planting too close: Crowded onions stay small. Give each plant 4–6 inches. If you want green onions/scallions, you can plant closer (2 inches).
- Not curing before storage: After harvest, cure onions in a warm, dry, ventilated area for 2–3 weeks. Uncured onions rot in storage.
Companion planting with onions
Onions are excellent companion plants. Their smell deters many common pests:
- Good companions: Carrots, tomatoes, lettuce, peppers, strawberries, beets
- Bad companions: Beans and peas (onions stunt legume growth)
For more companion planting ideas, check out our companion planting chart.
Harvesting and storage
Onions are ready to harvest when the tops fall over and begin to dry. Here's the process:
- Stop watering when about half the tops have fallen over
- Wait a week, then pull the bulbs
- Cure in a warm, dry spot with good airflow for 2–3 weeks
- Trim roots and tops, then store in a cool, dry place
Properly cured long-day onions can store for 3–6 months. Short-day onions are sweeter but store for only 1–3 months.
Quick reference
Use our seasonal planting calendar to see onion planting dates alongside all your other crops. And if you're planning a spring garden, our spring planting schedule will help you sequence everything.
🧅 Find your exact planting dates
Enter your zip code to get personalized onion planting times based on your local frost dates.