January 20, 2026

Fall garden planting guide

Most gardeners pack it in after the last tomato comes off the vine. I get it. By August you're tired of weeding, tired of watering, and the garden looks rough. But here's the thing: fall is actually easier than spring for a lot of crops. Cooler temps mean less pest pressure, less watering, and many vegetables taste better after a light frost sweetens them up.

The trick is starting before you feel like it. Fall planting begins in mid to late summer, while you're still picking tomatoes. That mental shift trips people up more than anything technical.

Count backward from your first frost date

Everything in fall gardening revolves around one number: your average first frost date. If you don't know yours, check it here. Once you have that date, you count backward.

Take the "days to maturity" on your seed packet and add about two weeks. The extra time accounts for shorter days and slower growth as fall approaches. That gives you the latest date you can plant and still expect a harvest before hard frost.

For example: if your first frost is October 15 and you're planting lettuce that matures in 45 days, you'd add 14 days for the slow-down factor, giving you 59 days. Count back 59 days from October 15 and you get August 17 as your last planting date.

What to plant in a fall garden

Not everything works for fall. Stick to cool-season crops. These are plants that actually prefer temperatures in the 40s and 50s and can handle light frosts.

The fastest crops to get in first (direct sow 8-10 weeks before frost):

• Lettuce and salad greens (30-60 days)
• Spinach (40-50 days)
• Radishes (25-35 days)
• Turnips (45-60 days)
• Asian greens like bok choy and tatsoi (40-50 days)

Crops that need more lead time (start 10-14 weeks before frost):

• Broccoli (transplants work best for fall)
• Cauliflower (same, start indoors in July)
• Brussels sprouts (these need the longest runway, 14+ weeks)
• Cabbage (transplant in late July or early August)
• Kale (direct sow or transplant, extremely frost hardy)

Root crops that go in between those two groups:

• Carrots (sow 10-12 weeks before frost)
• Beets (sow 8-10 weeks before frost)

The soil temperature problem

Here's something nobody mentions in most fall planting guides: soil temperature. In spring, you're waiting for soil to warm up. In fall, you have the opposite problem. If you're sowing lettuce seed in August, the soil might be 85 degrees. Lettuce germinates poorly above 75F.

A few workarounds that actually help:

• Water the bed heavily the evening before planting. Moist soil stays cooler.
• Sow in late afternoon when the soil is starting to cool.
• Use shade cloth (30-50%) for the first week or two after sowing.
• Start transplants indoors where it's cooler, then move them out once the weather breaks.

I've had entire lettuce sowings fail in August heat, then a second sowing two weeks later come up perfectly because we got a few cloudy days. Don't give up on the first try.

Extending the season with simple covers

Row cover (the lightweight white fabric, sometimes called Reemay) is the single best investment for fall gardening. A single layer of medium-weight row cover gives you about 4-6 degrees of frost protection. That can stretch your season by 3-4 weeks.

You don't need anything fancy. Drape it over the plants, weigh down the edges with rocks or boards. The fabric lets rain and light through. Leave it on full time once night temps drop below 40F.

For even more protection, a simple cold frame (basically a bottomless box with an old window on top) can keep greens alive through December in zone 6, sometimes longer. Kale and spinach under a cold frame will survive single-digit temperatures and start growing again when days lengthen in late January.

Watering in fall

Fall gardens need less water than summer ones, but newly planted seeds still need consistent moisture to germinate. Water daily for the first week or two if there's no rain. Once plants are established, the cooler weather and shorter days mean you can back off to once or twice a week depending on your soil.

One mistake I see: people stop watering entirely once it starts raining in September. Check the soil. September rain can be sporadic, and newly planted carrots and beets need steady moisture for the first month.

Frost actually makes some things better

This is the best part of fall gardening. When certain plants experience frost, they convert starches to sugars as a cold-protection mechanism. Kale after a frost tastes noticeably sweeter. Same with carrots, parsnips, Brussels sprouts, and turnips.

So don't panic at your first frost warning. Cover the tender stuff (lettuce, bok choy) and let the hardy crops take the hit. They'll thank you for it.

A simple fall planting timeline

Working backward from a mid-October frost date (adjust for your area):

• Late June/early July: Start broccoli, cauliflower, and Brussels sprout transplants indoors
• Mid July: Sow carrots, direct sow kale
• Late July: Transplant broccoli and cauliflower, sow beets
• Early August: First lettuce and spinach sowings
• Mid August: Sow radishes, turnips, Asian greens
• Late August: Last lettuce sowing, plant garlic cloves

If your frost date is earlier or later, shift everything accordingly. The PlantWhenNow planting calendar can generate a custom timeline based on your zip code.

One last thing

Fall gardening gets easier every year you do it. The first time feels weird because you're starting new plants while old ones are still producing. By the second year, it's just part of the rhythm. And honestly, October garden salads from your own yard hit different when everyone else's garden is done for the year.